Tet

For many Westerners (particularly Americans) the word Tet was made famous during the Tet Offensive in the Vietnam/American war. The attack took place on the first day of the Lunar New Year known in Vietnam as Tet. It would be like saying the "New Year's Offensive". On January 31st, 1968, the North Vietnamese Army (NVA) and the National Front for the Liberation of South Vietnam (NLF; also commonly referred to as the Vietcong) launched the largest scale attack by either side of the war to that point. The widespread reporting of the Tet Offensive had a huge psychological impact on the world and marked a turning point in the public's perception of the war.

Tet is the most important holiday in Vietnam with many customs both before and after the actual day. Since it is an extremely family oriented holiday, travel can be very difficult the week preceding and the week following Tet - which is why I am stuck in Hanoi until the 6th! Tet is a time to honor the ancestors by repainting their tombs (many are buried on the family's land, often in the rice patties); those that live in the city will hang pictures of their ancestors on the wall, or display them in front of their store front - sometimes there are over one hundred pictures! Last week, the streets were packed with people shopping for gifts as well as stocking up on food and necessities (as much will be closed after Tet), paying off debts (it is good luck to be debt free on the first day of the New Year), visiting the pagodas making prayers and offerings. I participated in this last ritual by throwing a few thousand Dong on a plate in one of the pagodas in town. I attribute this act with a big stroke of luck (or Karma!) the very following day.



At the hostel I am staying, there was a big Tet celebration complete with Pub quiz and free drinks. My team came in second place (my team came in first in the Australia day Pub quiz a couple weeks ago!) and got a few rounds of rice wine and beer. Around 11pm we made our way down to the Hoan Kiem Lake to watch the fireworks with thousands of other travelers and Vietnamese. After that we made our way to a bar where my wallet got swiped. I realized it as I was leaving the bar at 4am. I mentioned it to the bar manager who told me he would look for it and that I should come back the next day at 6pm when they opened.  My hope was that someone took it from me at the bar, took the money, and ditched the wallet in a corner. The next morning (actually, more like afternoon) I woke up, starving and with no spare cash. I did however have an extra credit card which I intended to use to get a cash advance from one of the many ATMs. After trying 5 different ATMs with no luck, I went to the front desk to see if they could somehow do a cash advance. When I said "Cash Advance" to the Vietnamese girl behind the desk, she didn't understand. So I said "my wallet was stolen last night and I am wondering if I can get money from the hostel". At that her eyes widened with understanding as she reached for a drawer and produced MY WALLET! It was perfectly in tact with ID and cards minus the $30 that was in it; a small price to pay for not having to go through the hassle of trying to get everything replaced!

In six months of travel, this was the first crime/theft I have experienced. I do generally take many precautions, but that night I slipped up. It was a good reminder to only go out with the cash I need at night - especially if judgement is going to be affected by copious amounts of adult beverage. The true moral of the story however  is "Always make deposits at the pagodas because it brings good luck!"

So with my year of the Cat (or in China year of the Rabbit) off to a good start, I wish you the same!

Chúc mừng năm mới!!!